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March 7th, 2007 The Alaska State Game Board on March 7th changed the bear hunting policy decision approved two years ago for the lands directly adjacent to and south of McNeil. There's more information about that in this article: MCNEIL RIVER AREA: Public outcry leads panel to reverse a two-year-old decision. Anchorage Daily News, March 7, 2007. Still a basic question remains, how is the hunting of wandering McNeil bears to be stopped in the National Preserve and other nearby lands ? The National Preserve land area is shown further down this page on the displayed ADN map. ADFG Maps for adjacent hunting units are available at the following ADFG web site page, and show more clearly - but not clearly enough the areas opened to hunting on the lands which surround McNeil: 09A Unit 9A - Bear hunt open only in fall of odd-numbered years and spring of even numbered years 09B Unit 9B - Bear hunt open only in fall of odd-numbered years and spring of even numbered years 09C Remainder of Unit 9C - Bear hunt open only in fall of odd-numbered years and spring of even numbered years http://www.wildlife.alaska.gov/gis/index.cfm?GIS=Hunts.GHunts&speccode=B What's needed is a composited area map based on the information contained on the above ADFG maps hopefully without infringing on ADFG copyright - to more clearly delineate the issue about bears raised near humans who don't read hunting regulations. I hope to have a area map completed soon, so anyone can see that there is presently way too much hunting allowed of McNeil bears within 40 miles of McNeil - let alone a more realistic 100 mile buffer zone which is more likely the minimum needed to ensure bears that have been conditioned to non-threatning humans are not trophied out. At least one McNeil bear has been tagged over 70 miles away from the falls. The actual habitat range of the McNeil bears is unkown. Febuary 15, 2007 11) Don't Go, and Don't Apply. The McNeil Experiment of nondestructive coexisting humans and bears is over. It's time to move on, and change. Sanctuary Manager Larry Aumiller has already left Alaska and is living in Montana:
It wasn't my understanding that the sanctuary was created for bear viewing. My understanding was that the sanctuary was created to protect the bears - primarily from overly aggressive bear viewers; and to manage bear viewers. What appeared to be an enlightened policy on the part of the State Game Board towards the McNeil bears is clearly not the case now. Despite an already lowered bear population (2004 Notes page) because of increased hunting in the McNeil area - the State Game Board approved bear hunting on the state lands surrounding McNeil in 2005. Until this current policy is replaced with a more enlightened long term approach toward these bears, their survival in the natural world, and their habituation to non-destructive human behavior - No one should be going to Mc Neil. All you do by going is make it easier for hunters to kill these wild animals, who are used to being in our presence. All hunting of McNeil bears turns the living laboratory of non-destructive human - bear interactions into yet more trophies of dead fur hidden far away*. An ancient human fear drives some apparent need to dominate all corners of the earth, and determine fate more directly than the McNeil experience of being present with wildness allowed. This fear and the controlling reaction to it can only become our undoing. This connecting link in our demise will be but a faded memory after all the McNeil bears I saw and photographed are dead from hunter's guns. Some already are. Natural wildness will return to us again in some other form; just not soon in such an approachable one as these bears in that land along the McNeil just some few years ago now.
* Trophies of Dead Fur Hidden Far Away: One example of bears who now inhabit modern civilization bearing the smell of dead fur to us, is found in this current exhibit and recent book on Polar Bears in the UK: Nanoq: Flat Out and Bluesome: a Cultural Life of Polar Bears Nanoq is a illustrated account of the survey undertaken by artists Snæbjörnsdóttir and Wilson of taxidermied polar bears in the UK. Artist's Notes for 'Nanoq' Great White Bear, Horniman Museum, London, UK Oct 2006 to March 2007 PDF: Great White Bear, Horniman Museum Exhibit Images |
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1) The Current Augustine Volcano Activity is Available Here: Alaska Volcano Observatory (AVO) Since they are concerned in Homer about this volcano, you might want to consider how close it is to McNeil. I borrowed the vicinity map from AVO, it is here: Local Volcanoes Map |
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2) Take a Float Plane From Homer. If you have never been to Alaska, or flown with a bush pilot, you may wish to prepare yourself by watching Carroll Ballard's film ' Never Cry Wolf'. He has a classic opening sequence of flying into the bush. If you don't, well you can't say that you weren't warned. (Amazon.com: Never Cry Wolf) You may think I'm kidding, but then you've probably never been handed an aerial map and asked where we were at in a small plane either. (Well it is just the pilot, and a few people !) Or shown up only to find the airplane engine torn apart and lying in several pieces on the dock. When you were expecting to leave in 30 minutes to catch the tide. Fortunately (or unfortunately) the flights to McNeil are rather routinely tame over the wild country. (The pilots get alot of practice on this route.) Depending on the weather though it's possible you could find yourself socked in and not able to fly in/out for your permit period. But since the weather during the summer is usually mild, you normally will not have a problem.  A view of Homer looking towards the spit and Cook Inlet, 2004, F2: Nikon 15mm f3.5 One of the advantages with flying across Cook Inlet from Homer to McNeil, rather than say Anchorage is that there's less country to cover and less weather to contend with if it does turn a bit windy, cool and rainy. Which then can easily impact your ability to make travel connections. Check the local Homer weather before you leave home: Homer Weather Research the tide tables, you need to know when the float plane can land at McNeil before you set up your schedule: Homer Tide Table & Weather In the past I have used both of these neighboring Homer to McNeil float plane services: The friendly de Creeft Kachemak Bay Flying Service - whose son Jose is now the one providing the McNeil flight service trips under the Northwind Aviation banner OR contact his parents, and Beluga Lake Float Plane Service, 907.235.8256, as I mention on another page - On my first trip in '95 I flew with Beluga, we did a full 360 circle flyover of the smoking Augustine volcano you'll see on the way to McNeil. You will also receive additional up to-date contact information from the State of Alaska if you manage a lottery permit. But these two float plane services are the mainstays of the Homer - McNeil route. There has normally been a ~70lb weight limit imposed on all my gear. When the camera equipment is a significant percentage of that you need to be creative. Depending on the total flight load, sometimes all you need to do is pay extra for the overweight amount. Other times different solutions to ferrying your gear over may be required. If you are going to be over your weight limit - you should understand how it's going to be handled by the float plane service before you leave home. |
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 Tide is Up, a Late Evening View to Mikfik Creek from Camp, F2: Nikon 105mm f2.5 |
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3) If you're from out of state, fly to Homer from Anchorage. I usually fly into Homer. I find I don't really need a car there, if I do either the taxi works great, or you can wrangle some personal service from the B&B you'll no doubt be staying at. To me that beats paying for the rental on a car that waits for you while you're over at McNeil. In addition the flight into Homer can be quite scenic. The last time I went to Homer the pilot flew in over the Harding Ice Field, and the Kenai Mountains. That's a real treat. Unless you really like to drive (I used to), or are with several others, don't. The Alaska scenic route is best done flying. If you want to drive around either before you are headed to McNeil (I recommend that), or afterwards, it's simple enough to pick up a car at the Anchorage airport. But be warned, the car rental agencies don't really want you doing any real driving. It's against their rules to drive down any road that isn't paved. That leaves out alot of exciting, and hazardous routes. And really driving in Alaska is not like cruising the lower 48. I have my reasons for saying this and later I may write more about it. |
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5) Winning the McNeil Permit Lottery: Good Luck ! works best. While it's really a matter of luck, if you Study the lottery permit percentage tables on the State of Alaska web site, you will notice that the odds of getting a permit go up as you head into the early or late off-peak salmon run times. While it's true there is not as much action during those periods, and more likely lower numbers of bears to be seen - because after all either the bears haven't arrived, or the fish aren't running.
Usually about the beginning of July, the salmon start moving up the McNeil River in enough numbers to attract the bears there - on a more or less constant basis. So that's where you will be heading from then on with the fish. |
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6) Apply for a Standby permit too. Don't ignore the chance to obtain a standby permit. On every trip I have been on, either one or two regular permit holders have not shown up. Sometimes those in camp chose not to go out. Standby permit holders usually manage to get out at least one day during the overlapping permit period. My experience has been that you usually get at least two or more days out with the bears. So apply, and then go if you do get a standby permit. It's definitely worth it. Even when you think it won't be. |
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 The Infamous Hump of the Brown Bear, F2: Nikon 500mm f4 |
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7) Now what ? You did *not* win the McNeil Permit Lottery ! Most people don't manage a permit who apply. While you could slowly pine away at home, and depending on your disposition to adventure - there are options. |
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Primarily the first option is doing a day trip from Homer to Katmai for a bear visit. I don't have experience going this route. But I would recommend checking with Ken and Chris Day at Emerald Air Service. You can see Chris on the 'Bears' National Wildlife - Imax movie done a few years ago. Chris has the appropriate sensitivity you need to assist you in spending time actually 'being' with bears, rather than just visiting the furry sights. There are other Alaska operators who also specialize in this type of day trip too - but again I have no experience there doing this. |
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In addition if you make it to Homer permitless, you will want to check with the float planes operators servicing the McNeil traffic to see what they may recommend. I expect they can easily come up with a good suggestion or two for a bear visit. (See Homer float planes above) |
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8) Arrive prepared. It's not called the Alaskan Bush for no reason. If you come through Anchorage on your way to McNeil I have found the Anchorage REI store is better stocked for Alaska than a local store was here. Which makes sense. While I like the Anchorage store alot, unless I lived in Alaska, I would not expect to outfit my trip in one quick stop there. I use it to purchase those items I forgot, or left behind. Of course I usually remember them on the flight up. Use the item list the State of Alaska recommends for your organizing efforts before you leave home. Camping:
Don't make this mistake. This doesn't mean Waders ! - You won't need waders BUT you definately need coverage to your hips with easier to manage hip boots. The water you have to move through can be a bit more than you would expect while safe at home. The ground can become rather slick under foot, so you will need boots that grip well. |
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9) Camera - Lens basics. You may notice on this page that I use some great Nikon longer fast lenses. The minimum length lens you want to have for the longest reach is a fast 500mm. And you can easily find yourself wishing for something longer than that. I really liked the 600mm f4 lens that Nikon produces even better than the 500 - which is a fine lens.
Consider where your power is, there's none available for you at McNeil. With the new digital cameras, you will require battery power and storage space. One of the pros the last time I was at McNeil lost most of his shots due to a hard drive crash. Consider how you will store, save and protect your images in isolation for up to 6 days. If you burn through shots, and machine-gun it you will need either a lot of film, or storage and batteries. I don't shoot much, the light and the bears come together only so often during the day. Most people will shoot more than I do, I think last time I shot about 10 or 12 rolls of 36 exposure - and that includes both Kodachrome and black & white. And then too, don't forget you will need to keep it all dry ! |
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10) Study up. Learn before, during, and after your trip. Move your ego aside, understand your place, the landscape, bears, and the great divides of our days. Consider well why it is that we have to travel so far to safely spend time among these beings. And why the number of bears returning to McNeil is dropping every year. Do what Timothy Treadwell didn't do. Try to get a feel for what this is you are seeing. My other McNeil pages have plenty of reference links to material that explore different facets of this opportunity to enlighten our lives. You may think as I first did you are only headed to see bears at McNeil. Catching salmon. And yes, if you're as naturally illiterate as I was that's all you will. But the experience of McNeil can be a touchstone to a inter-dependant awareness of life beyond the distracting tumult of our days. And then too everything in between. The following is a short list of critical links towards coming to terms with the state of the bear, the salmon, their life, the wild life and our life without it: |
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Tom Butler:
Wild Earth: Wild Ideas For A World Out of Balance Freeman House: Totem Salmon: Life Lessons from Another Species Aumiller, Walker: The Way of the Grizzly Forbes, Jay, Madsen: Reaching Home: Pacific Salmon, Pacific People |
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To be continued... |
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 Bill de Creeft and his '29 Travel Air Lifting Out of Homer, F2: Nikon 600mm f4 |
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Additional Bear News and Links of Note:
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henley/graphics
